I went to phl today and saw the skate profiling and never seen that before lol. What is it? Do most of you do it? and is it worth the 20 bucks? Thanks Guys
Custom Skate Profiling
#2
Posted 22 August 2013 - 11:17 PM
Best $20 you'll ever spend and if you do it at PHL you can go back and change it as many times as you want which is neat.
I can't skate without them being done. It's basically shaping your blade to how you play so you have more blade on the ice... Standard, Combinations and Progressive profiles are all available depending on how you play. If you've never had one I'd start with a 9-10 combination profile.
Your sharpen will determine how much bite you get, say going into a corner, your profile will determine how tight you turn
#3
Posted 22 August 2013 - 11:19 PM
#4
Posted 22 August 2013 - 11:23 PM
Best $20 you'll ever spend and if you do it at PHL you can go back and change it as many times as you want which is neat.
I can't skate without them being done. It's basically shaping your blade to how you play so you have more blade on the ice... Standard, Combinations and Progressive profiles are all available depending on how you play. If you've never had one I'd start with a 9-10 combination profile.
Your sharpen will determine how much bite you get, say going into a corner, your profile will determine how tight you turn
how do they know your skating position and when you mean change as many times.. do you mean in that 20 dollars? does it wear down ur steel after to do it a few times?
If you need Maple Leafs Gear do NOT PM me
#5
Posted 22 August 2013 - 11:28 PM
It's the same thing - rocker, contour, profile etc.
Ask them what profile they suggest or post here what kind of player you are. What position do you play?
If you don't like the profile they suggest to you, you can go back and change it. It wears your steel down but you'd have to do it a lot to really get low. Depending how often you sharpen your skates you can generally figure out how often you need to profile your skates in a year. Some people are good with once a year, some need more.
#6
Posted 22 August 2013 - 11:33 PM
yea I am pretty shy around those people lol so I guess I will post all my info here.
position: left wing
Height: 5'7
Weight: 160
and after you profile you don't have to get like a custom sharpening done right? just a standard would be fine I am guessing
If you need Maple Leafs Gear do NOT PM me
#7
Posted 22 August 2013 - 11:35 PM
Are you an aggressive winger? Always going to the net? Going to the net hard? Always moving your feet? Or kind of like to coast and not super quick.
I'd start with a 9-10 and if you like it go back and change it to a 7-12. Standard sharpen after profiling yes, nothing special
#8
Posted 22 August 2013 - 11:36 PM
Are you an aggressive winger? Always going to the net? Going to the net hard? Always moving your feet? Or kind of like to coast and not super quick.
I'd start with a 9-10 and if you like it go back and change it to a 7-12. Standard sharpen after profiling yes, nothing special
no not aggressive pretty casual on the ice, just like to do my dangles and shoot it hard lol...
If you need Maple Leafs Gear do NOT PM me
#11
Posted 23 August 2013 - 01:39 AM
There's all different kind of profiles with the combination ones, CAG one machine, etc. My shop uses the old blademaster system and does 7', 9', 11', and 13'. You want to go with as flat of a profile as possible to maximize speed (higher the number the flatter the profile). While saying that, the flatter the profile the harder it will be to make sharp turns. It's something you have to tinker with to dial in exactly how you want it. You can also change the lie of the blade, most call it a forward, neutral, or defense lie. A forwards lie will move the balance point of the blade back closer to the hell allowing you to roll forward more than a neutral lie. If you feel like you're catching to toe of your skates while skating you'd want to go with a forward lie to allow you to roll forward more before catching the toe of the skate.
Changing the profile can also change what hollow you prefer. If you go with a flatter profile you may want to go with a shallower hollow. With more blade contacting the ice it could make your current hollow feel too sharp and vise-verse.
I really don't know a whole lot about the combination radius's or anything so I can't offer much input there.
#12
Posted 23 August 2013 - 01:59 AM
I believe PHL uses a Pro Sharp, which allows for the combination and progressive radius and standard of course. Basically your combination 9-10 is 9 on the front of your blade and right in the middle it switches to 10 at the back. Your progressive (something like a 7-12) is 7, 7.1, 7.2 etc till 12. So on your toes more and far more aggressive.
Generally the guideline goes:
Standard - 9, 11, 13 (well just flat - defensive usually 11&13), 29 (goalie)
Combination - 9-10 etc (forward or defensive who are a little aggressive)
Progressive - 7-12 etc (agressive forward)
Now by now means do you have to follow this but that's generally the categories I guess you can say. One of my best friends is a D and she uses a 7-12 forward pitch because she loves to be on her toes and rush the puck. She's almost fully forward but an amazing skater so she can do it ya know?
All depends but if you're getting your first one 9-10 is always safe! A little on your toes, great for pivoting and turns.
#14
Posted 23 August 2013 - 11:58 AM
I have never got into contour. I show up before my games put my skates by the machine and the same dude who works there does them however he has always done. Nothing special and I love em.
Are you talking just about a sharpening? And u sharpen them every game?
If you need Maple Leafs Gear do NOT PM me
#15
Posted 23 August 2013 - 01:45 PM
I won't go into or bash any particular machines or places. I will just warn that contours are by far the most poorly sold, misused and erred things in a pro shop/store. Many places don't know what they are doing. Use "automated" machines, wrong holders or contour bars. Be very careful. When you take your skate back find a firm surface and rock the skate. If there is any point or edge, a place where the skate seems to teeter. Then they are screwed up. The transitions should be smooth.
Working with a few of the best guys around. I have seen far more wrongly done blades than good ones. In this case you would have been better off with a axe grinder to do your skates.
My suggestion for contouring. Do your research. Often a good place will be a little more. But you will be rewarded with a much better blade. And you will see the difference.
#17
Posted 23 August 2013 - 03:40 PM
The guy I bought my skates from profiled my skates. I think it was a pro-sharp machine seeing how it has two different profiles on it.
The only bad thing is, I have no idea what profile I'm on because he wouldn't tell me, he basically said to me skate on them and tell me if it needs changed or not. But this guy was a hockey genius so I trusted him.
And it makes a huge difference, I play D and always have edges whenever I have to skate back or forwards.